When it comes to weekend mornings, nothing beats freshly smoked lox. Imagine a toasted bagel, loaded with lox salmon, freshly sliced tomato, thinly shaved red onion, capers and a healthy shmear of cream cheese, dotted with a handful of briny capers. Flavor, crunch, richness and smoky protein, all stacked up like a winning breakfast prize, and you hold the ticket.
Most lox you’ll find has been salt cured for hours, then cold-smoked (under 90 degrees) for the same time or longer. It’s the standard recipe result you’ll get in any reputable deli or fish shop: Think Russ & Daughters in New York City or Pike Place Market in Seattle and you’ve hit the pinnacle of the smoked fish art in America.
I procured and perfected a wonderful hot-smoked salmon method years ago. While lox isn’t hot-smoked, it still involves a fair amount of time and attention. That is, until I studied and tested a super-quick method you can make in the refrigerator overnight that rivals anything you’ll find in the best delis and takes your Sunday brunch (or a weekday breakfast treat) to another delicious level…without using a standard smoker.
Start with a quality, sushi-grade salmon. This isn’t cooked, but cured and you need the sushi-grade salmon for safety. For my recipe, I use Byerly’s Market in Minnesota and their “Sixty South Pure Antarctic Salmon” fillets. At $18.99 per pound, it’s considerable in cost, but a worthy indulgence. Start by putting the fillet in the freezer for 20-30 minutes to firm it up, then slice it paper-thin with a boning knife. Lay these pieces on a large plate and sprinkle generously with kosher salt and pepper, then flip and do the other side. Cover with wrap and put it back in the fridge for 2 hours, minimum.
Here’s the smoke secret: Liquid smoke. No need to mess with the cold-smoker, and for those whose living situations prohibit any kind of grilling, this is ideal. Take 1:1 parts water and Wright’s Hickory Liquid Smoke, though any quality liquid smoke will do. Using a pastry brush, dab it all over your salmon pieces, then flip and do the other side. Wrap again and put back in the fridge for 30 minutes. I don’t suggest doing straight liquid smoke – it’s too strong and might overpower the natural fish flavor. Cutting it with equal parts water gives you a perfectly balanced smoky essence on your (now) beautifully cured fish.
That’s it! That’s all you have to do. After 30 minutes in the fridge, use it however you like. For me, it’s done as described above: A generous shmear of cream cheese, followed by those lovely tomatoes and onions and capers. Throw in a quick squeeze of lemon if the spirit moves you but pile that gorgeous salmon all on top.
I always leave my salmon bagel naked at the top. I want that fleshy, rich, smoky first bite of salmon to hit the top of my palette and combine into a thing of beauty in my mouth.
Try it. It’s the easiest, most delicious and sinful indulgence, and at a price that’s worth it (even with our overinflated food costs these days). Richness made so simple, you’ll file this recipe away for the next time you want an incredible smoke(less) lox salmon. Let’s brunch!
-Jack Delaney
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